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how-to: remove seat bolts in a 2nd generation s10

This is a fool proof way to remove seat bolts/seatbelt bolts(in the floor) in a 2nd generation s-10. Other gm trucks may use the same size torx bolt (i'm not sure) but the procedure will be the same

First,you will need the tools: My first choice is an oxy/acet. torch...now this may not be available to all so a propane torch may be substituted.

Obviously the propane will take longer to heat but you may not have an option.

A t-50 torx and preferably a long handled 3/8 ratchet and a hammer of your choice. I did some hands on testing of several different torx bits,mostly generic.In my findings the generic T-50 fit,but the Snap-On T-47 fit snugly also.If in doubt,or your current torx bit is 'sloppy',buy a Snap-On T-47.

First,of course,you will need to remove interior plastic so you have access to the bolts. Two people can make this easier and insure that the carpet does not catch fire(i have done this dozens of times by myself with zero problems.)

Now we will do this one side at a time.......

Insert your t-50 torx bit into the torx bolt and whack it dead on with a hammer several times,then put torx bit on ratchet.

Now get under your truck and heat this plate(driver's side.) Heat it good, glowing if possible. DO NOT heat the bolt threads directly, the reason for this is heat makes metal expand, we want the nut to expand,not the bolt or we are defeating the purpose!

Now either you or your buddy can TIGHTEN the torx bolt.....THEN reverse it and back it out.......if you heated it enough then it should come out without heating again. Follow the same procedure for the passenger side.

heat this plate(behind the shield pass. side) this is driver's side view:

Your bolts will come out perfect the first time with no broken bits or stripped heads....but they will be warm so don't touch them!

it says rite in the instructions here to use a t-50 torx for this thread that is incorrect u shouldnt have to pund it in.......its a t-47 go to ur tool dealer get the proper torx and do it the right way! the bit is shaped differently its wider on the edges and its stronger and u dont have to bash on it with a hammer, u cant do it the rite way!
Quote:
Originally Posted by snoplow View Post
it says rite in the instructions here to use a t-50 torx for this thread that is incorrect u shouldnt have to pund it in.......its a t-47 go to ur tool dealer get the proper torx and do it the right way! the bit is shaped differently its wider on the edges and its stronger and u dont have to bash on it with a hammer, u cant do it the rite way!
if you had taken the time to read the entire thread,I had previously stated that a generic t-50 fit,although a snap on t-47 was a snug fit.I did hands on testing,and e-asked some people....the main concensus was t-50 using generic bits.....i clearly stated a Snap-On T-47 was to be used if the bit was sloppy.

and in no way is the hammering of the bit into the bolt ''pounding it in'' .. it is merely giving the threads an initial shock prior to heating....
Quote:
Originally Posted by snoplow View Post
it says rite in the instructions here to use a t-50 torx for this thread that is incorrect u shouldnt have to pund it in.......its a t-47 go to ur tool dealer get the proper torx and do it the right way! the bit is shaped differently its wider on the edges and its stronger and u dont have to bash on it with a hammer, u cant do it the rite way!


hmmmm.....and gives instructions too...hmmmm

i agree, heating is the only way to get these bolts out. i spent lots of time soaking them with penetrating oil and other things but finally a few months later i was able to get them out after i tried the heat method. if you are lucky, and very lucky, you will get them out without heating them but dont count on it.
I broke 8 bits the other day before i ground the F-ing head off the bolt. If I had heat it would have been so easy. I even tried impacting it out but still broke bits.
Wow! I just removed my seats the other day for amp wiring and interior cleaning and didn't have not one bit of trouble with those. Don't even remember what size bit i used. Only took a moderate amount of pressure to break loose.
Mine didn't have any bolts..just nuts that came out with ease.
Yea when i changed my seats out had no trouble at all.
I had to drill out the bolt on my Blazer when I removed the seat. The bolt on the donor Blazer came out soooooo easy... WTF, huh?
You just weren't putting enough ass into it, ya wuss.